Every once in a while you stumble upon a producer whose wines consistently speak to you. Alice and Olivier De Moor are that couple for me. Their wines are classic, classy, and universally loved. Find me a person who doesn’t want to shed a tear over their Chablis, and I’ll eat my hat. Their Aligoté is one of my favorite wines of all time. That’s why when the Sauvignon Blanc came into Rebel Rebel, I jumped at the chance to take it home.
Alice and Olivier De Moor are the perfect couple to be producing white Burgundy. They’re the picture you imagine when thinking about French wines. Olivier grew up in the town of Courgis, less than 5 miles from Chablis. Their Chablis is aged in the cellar of his grandfather’s house. They’ve been partners in wine since 1989, creating beautiful Chardonnay, Aligote, and Sauvignon Blanc in a majestic blindingly-white soiled region for 30 years. Beyond making elegant wines, though, they’ve been pioneers in their region when it comes to crafting wines naturally. They’ve been farming organically for 14 of those years, since 2005. Today, they make wines without S02 during harvest or bottling.
Sauvignon Blanc is not the bread and butter of the De Moor team. Their different cuvees of Chardonnay are their mainstays. However, that’s what makes their Sauvignon Blanc so beautiful. It’s an anomaly in the line-up. The Sans Bruit is grown on Portlandian rock, covered in well-draining clay. It’s aged in stainless steel tanks, a departure from the old oak barrels that age their Chardonnay. It’s finicky, sometimes taking a whole year to ferment. I brought the Sauvignon Blanc to a birthday party held outside in the backyard, mostly wine-os like me and other beverage enthusiasts.
The wine was elegant and alive, but confusing, or rather—curious. If you had blinded me on it, I would have called it Chardonnay. To quote my friend Katie, “whoa, Sauv Blanc?’. It had a silky texture, a body that made you savor the wine—not crush it in the late June heat. A bundle of citrus, just a slight touch of grass, it was Sauvignon Blanc, but it was also more than that. It was smooth, restrained, it was captivating. It was Burgundy.
Drink this Sauvignon Blanc outside, with friends. Preferably, in a backyard in the summer, as the party is settling down and the sun is setting.